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Old 05-05-2001, 01:40 PM   #1
403_Delta88

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Post 395558 2 Casting number... What block is this?

I found this in the Delta 88 I got for $125... I know it's an older block, but what exactly is it? In the olds faq, it says it's a '68-70 350, but my engine has EGR and #8 heads.

------------------
Jim
'77 Delta 88, 403
'85 Cutlass Supreme, 231
'78 Delta 88, 350
 
Old 05-05-2001, 04:52 PM   #2
83 H/O

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I think the Olds faq may be mistaken on that one. From the Olds casting guide I have here:...

Your number corresponds to a 72-76 350 with the Number 8 Heads. I have 2 350's in my garage (76 and 74) and they bear the same block number and head number.

Head casting # should be: (by the exhaust manifold center)
397742,
408859,
409147,or 411929

I'm not sure (Page missing) but I don't think the Pre 72 350's used that same block #. If they did, the only other explanation would be that someone swapped Intake Heads on your motor.

Hope that helps

------------------
I'm not driving to fast, I'm flying to low.

83 H/O Stock
83 Buick T-Type Stock
86 Buick GN - 11.94 @ 116mph
79 T/A 468 Olds W30 - 10.86 @ 127.2mph
..and let's not forget the wifeeee's "UltraFast" 99 Alero GLS 3.4 Grocery Runner.

[This message has been edited by 83 H/O (edited 05-05-2001).]
 
Old 05-05-2001, 05:12 PM   #3
403_Delta88

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Thanks a lot
 
Old 05-05-2001, 06:53 PM   #4
78oldscutlass

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hey 83 H/O,

I have a 70 350 that I pulled from a station wagon and it has the same casting number. It has # 6 heads.
 
Old 05-06-2001, 03:32 AM   #5
Karlb

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I've got two 72 blocks and on 68 block with those numbers. The 68 has the 5 heads and no EGR of course.

------------------
'68 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Cutlass Supreme
 
Old 05-06-2001, 06:19 AM   #6
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When I bought my `80 Calais, it had #395558 2 block, w/ 3A heads, I found out later that the person BLEW UP the original engine, and instead of getting a new engine, he just replaced the block, and used the olds heads, intake, everything.

But the 395558 2 block is CORRECT for 1968-70 cars (or even 1971 cars built in 1970) I have 2 of these blocks, they are THE BEST blocks for a hi-perf. build-up, SOLID mains, can be overbored SAFELY to .068 over (4.125"),and using a 425 STOCK piston, have even heard of going .098 over and using a a 425+.030, WITHOUT block filling.

Ryan
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Old 05-06-2001, 06:21 AM   #7
83 H/O

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You guy's are both correct. The older blocks do have that same number. (at least the 70 that I looked at does). You can tell by the heads on those years. (5's, 6's and 7's) that they are older. (Pre 72). Which are the "Preferred 350's).

Ryan, those 3A's are a "little better" than the 8's. They have a 75cc chamber as opposed to a 79cc chamber and are from late 76-up. (they also have 1/2" head bolts as opposed to the earlier Olds Small BLocks with 7/16" head bolts.) - By the way, I have a spare set of 3A's around here if anyone needs them - $75.

also,..All small block Olds engines produced after 1977 have windowed main webs, with exception of the diesel 350. So "beware" of some late 350's.

------------------
I'm not driving to fast, I'm flying to low.

83 H/O Stock
83 Buick T-Type Stock
86 Buick GN - 11.94 @ 116mph
79 T/A 468 Olds W30 - 10.86 @ 127.2mph
..and let's not forget the wifeeee's "UltraFast" 99 Alero GLS 3.4 Grocery Runner.

[This message has been edited by 83 H/O (edited 05-06-2001).]
 
Old 06-17-2007, 07:10 PM   #8
GCAST2

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Default what casting number is this from

I have the same ?? the casting number I have is 396021 I say it for a 350 my freind thinks it from a 455 big block.any help is great
 
Old 06-17-2007, 07:20 PM   #9
71CutlassConvertible

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Wow, this is an old thread.

396021 is a 455.

395558 2 is a 68-76 350 block, for those of you who care.
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCAST2 View Post
I have the same ?? the casting number I have is 396021 I say it for a 350 my freind thinks it from a 455 big block.any help is great
Hi, and welcome to Oldspower.com my dear NOOB friend. I applaud that you used the search function of this site to try and answer your question. Please take the time to read all the details of the post BEFORE making a reply. This post was made in 2001.

Please make sure you read ALL the stickies at the top of each forum. These are full of "do's and don'ts" and will save you from the cyber bashing that will come from our seasoned members here on the site.

Kick back and enjoy all this site has to offer. You WILL meet some great folks here.

John
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:41 PM   #11
GCAST2

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Thank for the advice I have one more question what would a 396021 B
 
Old 06-17-2007, 07:43 PM   #12
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As mentioned in the post above mine... a 455.

John
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:00 PM   #13
nydeer

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eightupman View Post
Hi, and welcome to Oldspower.com my dear NOOB friend. I applaud that you used the search function of this site to try and answer your question. Please take the time to read all the details of the post BEFORE making a reply. This post was made in 2001.

John
Admin
Not to be another pot-stirred, but what does the date of a post have to do with replying to it? I mean if its 'Current Events', I understand, but technical info is different. If the covered material of an old posting doesn't answer somebody's question, isn't it a better practice to 'Add a Reply' to an old post and continue, then rehash the already covered material in a new posting?
Just want to know what prefered, NYD

Last edited by Eightupman : 06-17-2007 at 08:12 PM.
 
Old 06-17-2007, 08:12 PM   #14
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That is a valid question for sure. I guess the bigger problem is when someone replies to a forsale or parts wanted ad that is several years old. If you get the noobs to read the dates on every post then the possibility of doing it time and time again will go down.

He had a good question as well, no doubt. But I guess it is really more a gentle nudge to pay attention to things like the date when posting more than anything. Sometimes it will apply and others not so much.

John
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:10 PM   #15
dc660

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71CutlassConvertible View Post
Wow, this is an old thread.
Sure is, and it looks like some people were handing out bad advice back then as well. Check out "83 H/O" singing the praises of the crappy #3A heads over the #8.
Then he tries to pawn off his pair for $75 to some poor guy.

As a matter of fact, I just did a valve bowl port/polish on a set of #8 heads I'm getting ready to list on Ebay.
They came out surprizingly well, and once the extra material was removed from the exhaust valve seat area they look very similar to 1970 #6 heads.

I'm kind of reluctant to sell them now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 83 H/O View Post
Ryan, those 3A's are a "little better" than the 8's. They have a 75cc chamber as opposed to a 79cc chamber and are from late 76-up. (they also have 1/2" head bolts as opposed to the earlier Olds Small BLocks with 7/16" head bolts.) - By the way, I have a spare set of 3A's around here if anyone needs them - $75.
 
Old 06-18-2007, 11:08 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by dc660 View Post
I'm kind of reluctant to sell them now.
Unless you need the money or must make room in the garage, I say keep them. If you ever build a 350 they would work great with the readily available flat top pistons to give a good CR for street use. You never know how difficult it may be to find another set in the future...
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:57 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71CutlassConvertible View Post
Wow, this is an old thread.

395558 2 is a 68-76 350 block, for those of you who care.
This is CORRECT.... The info on 442.com is INCORRECT... this has been pointed out to them several times and they refuse to change it... Just as they refuse to remove any references to SMW 403s... which DO NOT exist...

From what I can gather the info on 442.com is pretty good on the big blocks... not so hot on the small blocks.
JMO
 
Old 06-18-2007, 01:08 PM   #18
Gundarak

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Other 350
SMW 403s... which DO NOT exist...
are you kidding me? I have a SMW 403, and it's gold plated!
 
 


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