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Old 06-05-2007, 08:12 AM   #1
72buicklark

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Default how to install a 1 wire Alternator, and delete voltage regulator

the old style 60 amp alternator isnt going to cut it with all the aftermarktet electronics in the car...hoping to find a diagram to install a newer style GM 1wire alternator thats internally regulated
 
Old 06-05-2007, 08:18 AM   #2
markfothebeast

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this kinda explains it - http://performanceunlimited.com/cobr...ternators.html

"Just connect one 8ga. wire to the battery-that's it!"

That reminds me, I should install an 8gauge wire on my alternator.

Last edited by markfothebeast : 06-05-2007 at 08:21 AM.
 
Old 06-05-2007, 08:24 AM   #3
markfothebeast

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http://home.comcast.net/~spudmanmike/monte/alt/alt.html
 
Old 06-05-2007, 08:28 AM   #4
72buicklark

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thanks ...kinda helps...

kinda hoping for simple wiring info such as what to do with each wire coming out of the regulator etc...
 
Old 06-05-2007, 08:32 AM   #5
markfothebeast

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http://www.billhughes.com/LateAlternator.jpg
 
Old 06-05-2007, 09:04 AM   #6
1985Cutlass455
 
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If you want a true one wire alternator, you dont use any of the wires from the regulator but you also lose your alternator light functionality on the dash. I personally like having a gen light telling me whats up so I would get a regular 3 wire internally regulated alternator If I were you. Here is a link showing how to rewire the regulator and the new alternator, then it explains how to convert to a newer 105 amp cs-130 alternator, which I run in both my cars. They work very well. For an oldsmobile standard size cs130 alternator case with proper mounting ears and standard v belt pully get one from a 1990 gm fullsize wagon with an olds 307 like a custom cruiser or buick estate wagon, caprice wagon, etc. Then it will bolt right into the brackets. I am running fuel injection, a stereo system with amp, electric fans etc in mine and it works great. Anyways here is the link, good luck: http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref14.html
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1985 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
1971 455 .030
9.75-1 CR
'C' Heads
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Lunati Harold cam 226-233 @ .050
900 CFM TBI Holley Commander Fuel Injection
TH200-4R From Monte SS
2800 Stall "D5" Converter
GN 8.5 3.73 POSI Rear
36MM TA Sway Bar
True Dual X Pipe Exhaust W-Z Manifolds
Black Interior W/ Lightning Rods

Current Status: Bought a house, car has sat in garage for over 2 years now :O whoops
 
Old 06-05-2007, 09:46 AM   #7
72buicklark

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thanks guys, should be more than enough info to get me through it
 
Old 06-05-2007, 09:51 AM   #8
markfothebeast

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In the Tutorial Section of Olds power: http://www.oldspower.com/vb/showthread.php?t=25411
 
Old 06-05-2007, 01:35 PM   #9
72buicklark

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ideally id be looking for a diagram such as this


http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref14.html

but i believe the only point of joining the 2 of the regulator is to keep the idiot light on the dash, but ive since installed aftermarket gauges with a voltmeter and dont need it.
 
Old 06-05-2007, 01:42 PM   #10
72buicklark

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hey markofthe beast, on the diagram you supplied how do the 2 wires going to the alternator test? as my car is a buick, i can test them and apply the info.

my car has the 12 volt charging lead, (red) and the 2 pin plug going to my alt has blue/black.
 
Old 06-05-2007, 02:09 PM   #11
1985Cutlass455
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72buicklark View Post
ideally id be looking for a diagram such as this


http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref14.html

but i believe the only point of joining the 2 of the regulator is to keep the idiot light on the dash, but ive since installed aftermarket gauges with a voltmeter and dont need it.
Yes, this is for the dash light. However the light serves more than just a warning purpose. The resistance of the bulb actually is used by the alternator to turn itself on. If you were to remove the dash light bulb the alternator would not charge. You can still make it work however by installing a resistor inline of the wire to trick the alternator into thinking there is a bulb there. You can still have a voltmeter and a warning light at the same time, its not redundant...the light is easier to see than keeping your eye on a gauge all the time. Factory gauge cars still have an alternator light. Unless of course you totally removed the old gauge panel that had the factory light on it. If this is the case you may as well just get a 1 wire alternator, you just run a charge wire from the back of it to the battery. One and done, no plug on the side. I think these 1 wire alternators turn on at a certain rpm instead of using the dash bulb resistance for a trigger. The only problem with that is if they go out it isnt as simple as going back to an auto store and getting it warranteed for free.
__________________
1985 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
1971 455 .030
9.75-1 CR
'C' Heads
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Lunati Harold cam 226-233 @ .050
900 CFM TBI Holley Commander Fuel Injection
TH200-4R From Monte SS
2800 Stall "D5" Converter
GN 8.5 3.73 POSI Rear
36MM TA Sway Bar
True Dual X Pipe Exhaust W-Z Manifolds
Black Interior W/ Lightning Rods

Current Status: Bought a house, car has sat in garage for over 2 years now :O whoops
 
Old 06-05-2007, 02:18 PM   #12
72buicklark

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i knew i slipped up on the topic of the post, i didnt mean a 1 wire setup i just meant i want to run an internally regulated Higher amperage Alt....
 
 


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